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Hippie clothing is now for hipsters

By Debra D. Bass POST-DISPATCH FASHION EDITOR 

Expensive crew necks and scratchy dungarees in varying shades of sand typically come to mind when the topic turns to environmentally friendly fashion. And we find ourselves talking about this more with Earth Day being celebrated Sunday.

But sumptuous fabrics in an ever-increasing array of colors are cropping up like bamboo shoots in China — the same bamboo that is being used to create textiles ranging in texture from silky cashmere to hardy denim.

Fabric options have expanded thanks to innovations in processing that can convert unexpected candidates such as milk, seaweed, pineapple, corn, bamboo, yak and the ever-green hemp into soft, alluring textiles. The new fabrics are inspiring designers to create products that aren't just good for the environment but also good for your wardrobe.

Sworn Virgins has a funky knit bamboo dress with contrasting blocks of color around the bodice and a draped sleeveless blouse suspended by tank top straps. Icebreaker has lightweight wool T-shirt blends adorned with contemporary botanical designs. HT Naturals has hemp tees that could be paired with a sleek blazer or hiking boots. White + Warren offers luxurious bamboo sweaters perfect for spring or for layering in the fall.Advertisement Many of the items are luxury goods with prices to match, but a growing amount of merchandise is affordable. It's a new day without tie-dye and patchwork. Environmental goods are gaining a stronghold in the consumer market among hipsters with average incomes. And they are wearing this merchandise for work, play and special occasions.

Earth Designs in Maplewood sells the Icebreaker line of merino wool clothing in various weights that can be worn in any weather. The New Zealand wool comes from livestock that runs free — not confined or farmed, just monitored. When the time comes, the animals are herded, sheered and released. The product that results is naturally antibacterial and designed to be practical. It's as cute as any comparable products from a typical retailer, and the quality is evident.

"Just feel it," says Jeff DePew of Earth Designs. "You don't have to know it's environmentally a good product to feel the difference."

The shirts are silky like a cotton-Lycra blend, but softer. Aside from the fact that it can be worn for days without any tell-tale odors, the shirts for men and women are form-fitting and attractive. The tanks, T-shirts and long-sleeve tops have contemporary graphic prints. DePew says earth-friendly doesn't mean you have to sacrifice aesthetics.

"I need to walk my talk, and that's an easier sell when people see products that are great no matter how they are made," says DePew, who teaches environmental studies at Webster University.

He's one of three local clothing retailers devoted to earth-friendly goods. Earth Designs and Home Eco have a general store component with items such as solar powered chargers for iPods and cell phones, and recycled flooring products. Righteous Ragz, 7298 Manchester Road in Maplewood (opening May 2), will only stock clothing and accessories.

All three locations are introducing apparel for the style and environmentally conscious.

"The clothing is nice. That's why we carry it, not because we're hippies," says Terry Winkelman of Home Eco at 4611 Macklind Avenue. If you want to get her riled discuss why it's illegal to farm hemp in the United States, even though the hemp plants used in clothing would be useless to anyone in search of a hallucinogenic.

But hemp clothing often conjures bad flashbacks for other reasons.

"I've got to overcome the perception about 1970s environmentally friendly clothing being ugly patchwork and scratchy hemp," Lori Allen of Righteous Ragz says. "I educated myself about the changes and I wanted to live and wear my values. I thought other people wanted that opportunity, too."

"Hemp grew up," but old perceptions remain, she says.

So when she found a plain black, organic cotton T-shirt that looked as good as a Calvin Klein tee, she took note. Her shop will focus on wardrobe staples, including jeans and T-shirts and wrap dresses, as well as fashion forward items such as jewelry and recycled handbags.

Allen and the other retailers don't expect customers to buy organic and earth-friendly clothing exclusively but, when the time comes, they don't want consumers to have any excuses that it's not available.

This chic and sporty thong, back, brown colored leather sandals from Chaco Naot Simple and othersgoes beautifully with casual wear, from Bermuda shorts to long cotton skirts. Ergonomically designed for comfort, the Switch features a combination fabric and leather upper and a soft, molded polyurethane footbed with excellent arch support for all-day wear. The sandal’s Vibram sole is ultra-light and offers durable traction on wet and dry surfaces

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